Take A Hike, Across the Pond
by
Elizabeth Bassett

Leave those jack-in-the-beanstalk weeds, the ballooning zucchinis,
and the hayfield that used to be your lawn and take a hike. Think
Adirondacks, a trip across the pond, with ferry rides bracketing the
day. While it's possible to start early and sprint up Camel's Hump
before lunch, an Adirondack hike takes more time. With bugs a buzzing
memory, leaves starting to color, and the hope of September sun, seize
the moment. Westerners lament that eastern hiking is like walking
through a long, green tunnel. The best Adirondack exception to that
rule may be East Trail, climbing the eastern flank of Rocky Peak Ridge
and Giant Mountain. For nearly half of its 6.7 mile length, East Trail
unfolds one splendid view after another of Lake Champlain, the High
Peaks, and the distant ridgeline of the Green Mountains. Several
intermediate points, including Blueberry Cobbles at 2.0 miles and Bald
Peak at 3.9, are logical stopping places for shorter hikes. A 1913
fire burned all of Rocky Peak and much of Giant. Soil on some of the
scorched outcroppings eroded leaving open plateaus for snack, lunch,
and views. These rocky dining rooms feature spectacular backdrops-
just bring the buffet. In summer, blueberries come with the site.
The Adirondack Mountains rise higher than the Green Mountains so open
summits abound. Noonmark, a pointed peak that lies nearly due south of
Keene Valley and thus marks noon, offers an unobstructed 360 degree
view from its summit. The Dix and Great Ranges and Giant Mountain
surround the 3,556 foot peak. The 2.1 mile Stimson Trail, named for
Roosevelt's Secretary of War who also served as President Hoover's
Secretary of State, rises 2,175 feet. Notes from a mid-September hike
hint at early patches of red in the maples. Be sure to park only in
designated spots along the Ausable Club Road, not near the golf
course. Look for signs.
Another popular hike (get an early start to insure a parking spot or
try a week day) is Cascade Mountain west of Keene. Another bald summit
and the easiest of the 4,000-footers to hike, Cascade is heavily
traveled with good reason. Even on a cloudy day stands of white birch
brighten the trail. Distance to the summit is 2.4 miles with a an
elevation gain of 1,940 feet. The trailhead is 6.8 miles west from
Keene on Route 73.
Across Route 73 is the trailhead for Pitchoff Mountain, elevation
3,600 feet, with a long stretch of exposed ridge. The distance to the
summit is 2.0 miles with a 1,440 foot gain. With two cars (unless one
wants to schlep 2.7 miles along the paved highway) it's possible to
continue on a loop back to Route 73 .
Enroute to the mountains, or as a reward on the way home, stop in the
one-shop-town of Wadhams. What a shop it is! In the heart of
"downtown," at the village's only intersection (routes 10, 8, and 22),
Merrick's Bread & Coffee bakes hearty and tasty scones, breads, and
cookies and brews its own organic coffee. Nice outdoor seating, too!
(518) 962-2280.
The Adirondack Park, at nearly 6 million acres, is more than twice
the size of Yellowstone and roughly the same size as the state of New
Hampshire. Nine alpine summits are among the 42 peaks over 4,000 feet.
More than 1,200 miles of river, 2,800 lakes and ponds, and an
estimated 30,000 miles of brooks and streams feed the Lake Champlain,
Hudson, Black, St. Lawrence, and Mohawk basins- quite a treasure in
our own side yard.
The Adirondack History Center in Elizabethtown brings to mind the
Charlotte Historical Society writ large, an informal and intriguing
collection of treasures from local attics and closets. These artifacts
tell of lumbering, hunting, and maple sugaring. The Center is open
until October 15. (518) 873-6466.
A great first hike for kids is Owls Head, a mere 0.6 mile with an
elevation gain of 460 feet- think of it as an unpaved Mt. Philo. Views
of Cascade, Pitchoff, Giant, and Hurricane may whet young appetites
for bigger adventures. The trailhead is 3.2 miles west of Keene on
Route 73.
A moderate hike in the same area, also with great views, is Hurricane
Mountain on the trail from Route 9 N. This popular, well-worn trail
gains 2,000 feet in elevation over its 2.6 mile distance. The
trailhead is closer to the ferry (6.8 miles west of the junction of
Rtes. 9N and 9 at the south end of the village of Elizabethtown) so if
time is short this hike might win out over Cascade and Pitchoff
farther to the west.
South of the High Peaks and west of Ticonderoga near Paradox and
Schroon Lakes, lies the tallest peak in the Pharaoh Lake Wilderness,
Pharaoh Mountain at 2,555 feet. The gradual trail, 5.6 miles round
trip and rising only 1,474 feet, leads to a fine vantage point and, in
season, oodles of blueberries. Schroon Lake lies at your feet to the
west, the High Peaks stretch like gumdrops across the northern
horizon, and Snake and the Green Mountains fade towards the east. Many
small lakes and bogs dot the foreground. Take the quirky Fort Ti Ferry
back home. The tiny barge hauls itself across the narrow neck of Lake
Champlain on used ski lift cables.
Don't leave home without directions to parking areas, trail
descriptions, and maps. The High Peaks Region Guide to Adirondack
Trails, published by the Adirondack Mountain Club (ADK), describes all
of the above hikes except for Pharaoh Mountain. It can be found in the
ADK's Central Guide.