For December, Go North to Montreal
by
Elizabeth Bassett

If November's meager allotment of sunlight is taking its toll, go
north, to a city that shuns winter's dark and gloom. Christmas is
celebrated exuberantly in Montreal: shop windows sparkle with lights,
snowflakes, and ribbons and carols warm the chill air. Thanks to a
strong US dollar, bargains abound as do gastronomic temptations:
French pastries, Quebecois meat pies, Chinese dim sum, Greek olives,
kosher smoked meat, and Lebanese mezze. And while we still dream of
frozen ponds, our northern neighbors are happily skating.
Three hundred nativity scenes, or crèches, are displayed each winter
at St. Joseph's Oratory. The setting itself merits a visit, the
world's second largest dome (after St. Peter's in Rome), dedicated to
Canada's patron saint. From the street, chemin Queen Mary, 283 steps
lead to the Corinthian columns of the main portico. While the interior
of the church isn't especially noteworthy, the red Christmas ribbons
that float down from the dome emphasize its vastness. Outside,
fifty-six bells, weighing 24,000 pounds, were originally cast for the
Eiffel Tower. From the Oratory a spectacular view stretches north,
perhaps to the north pole.
Thousands of pilgrims climb to St. Joseph's Oratory every year, many
on their knees, hoping for a miracle. A museum houses thousands of
crutches and canes discarded by the faithful.
The crèches are as varied as the 101 countries from which they come,
crafted from, among other things, grains, beans, capiz shell, spun
glass, roots, and laser-cut brass. In one setting the three kings tote
spears while in another Joseph sports Chinese pigtails. A Hawaiian
contribution is carved from coconuts and a Palestinian nativity, circa
1900, is rich with swirls of olive wood. Canada contributes Mary and
Joseph kneeling in the snow beside the manger, while a Greek Madonna
sits on a seaweed-covered rock at the seashore. Blue hydrangea
blossoms festoon a pottery crèche from Mexico. The lowing cattle match
the raiment of the holy family in midnight blue and gold Where will it
end? When you are simply too spent to absorb one more sweet scene.
Two blocks to the east, on the chemin de la Cote-des-Neiges, pastry
shops, coffee bars, and ethnic restaurants offer relief.
In the port area of Old Montreal, several dozen live Christmas trees
brighten the wintry streets. On corners and in parks and plazas, the
trees are thematically decorated by Montreal's ethnic communities. My
favorite was a Mexican tree, dotted with hundreds of brightly colored
mittens.
While in the old city, walk 350 years back in time at the Montreal
Museum of Archeology and History at Pointe-a-Calliere. The
contemporary building rises over the site where Montreal was founded
in 1642, at the mouth of the Little Saint-Pierre River. A humorous
multi-media presentation sets the stage before visitors descend
several stories into the depths of time. The city's first Catholic
cemetery and the former river bed, in a vaulted stone conduit, are at
the base of the excavations. Stairs wind toward the surface through a
labyrinth of foundation stones laced with pottery shards. Don't miss
the roof-top lookout across the city's skyline.
It's hard to imagine a more extravagant venue for Handel's Messiah
than the Gothic Revival Basilica of Notre Dame. Each December the
Montreal Symphony Orchestra and Choir perform the Christmas oratorio,
accompanied by a 6,800-pipe organ. The cathedral is a riot of
sculpture and soaring arches, richly painted in red, gold, and deep
blue.
Free, outdoor skating in public parks is part of the fabric of winter
in Montreal. A brisk twenty-minute walk from downtown, Beaver Lake, in
Mont Royal, is the preferred, traditional site. Other parks with
skating ponds include LaFontaine, Maisonneuve (home of the 181-acre
Botanical Garden, Insectarium, and bonsai collection), and, in the
middle of the St. Lawrence River, Ile Ste-Helene.
When visiting Canada, take proper identification for everyone in your
party, including children. Travel with notes from any parents not
accompanying their children.
St. Joseph's Oratory, 3800 chemin Queen Mary, exhibit open daily
until February 15, 10 a.m. to 5 p.m. No admission is charged but
donations are encouraged.
Montreal Museum of Archeology and History, 350 Place Royale, Old
Montreal. Closed Monday. (514) 872-9150;
www.musee-pointe-a-calliere-qc-ca
Handel's Messiah, December 19 & 20, tickets US $6.50 to 25.00. (514)
842-9951.