Charlotte Couple Welcomed in Morrocco and Tunsia
by Bonnie Ayer,
June 3, 2010, page 17.....
“Allahu Akbar.”
It is 4:45 a.m. The call to prayer wakes us out of our jet-lagged sleep. It is the voice of the muezzin from the speakers high on the minaret of the mosque, calling believers of Islam to pray, five times a day beginning one hour before sunrise, ending one hour after sunset.
In every city and town in Morocco and Tunisia this ritual binds the populace to a Suni Muslim tradition of respect and reverence for their creator. We learn that prayer is required, and excused if there is pressing need for other activity. It is the intention that makes a difference.
Our exploration brought us to two very beautiful and distinctive Moslem nations, Morocco and Tunisia, emerging into the world markets of the 21st century. We went to learn about their archeology, culture and present-day attitudes.
What we noticed was the quiet of the cities void of sirens and horns, the young men sipping mint tea in cafés, the dress of women including business suits, jeaccans, head scarves and traditional clothing, a gracious present-day ambiance laced with the customs and clash of ancient cultures.
Tunisia is an ancient blend of Phoenicians, Berbers, Jews from Djerba protecting the oldest synagogue in North Africa, dating to 6 B.C., Romans, Christians, Ottoman Turks, and Muslims from the conquering lands of Arabia mixed with 20th century French croissants and German influence, all within a Muslim country.
Their agriculture includes groves of ancient olive trees planted by the Romans still producing fruit every two years; date palms, not trees at all, but grasses supporting oasis towns in the desert; and orange and almond orchards supplying daily bowls of luscious, sweet fruit and nuts.
In Tunisia one can visit the ancient ruins of Carthage, including Hannibal’s birthplace; remains of the Roman Empire at Dougga and El Djem displaying the Opus Africanum support systems of temples, a coliseum etched with messages from World War II American soldiers, incredibly beautiful mosaics and remains of daily life in the villas and baths; and the Berber markets of the oasis towns, some, like Matmara, carved out of the mountains for cool summer refuge and safety from invaders.
Traveling to Kerouan we visited the mosque of this most holy city of North Africa. Our guide secured an audience with the Imam, a seventyish, British-appearing gentleman dressed in tweed who answered our questions with respect and wisdom. What advice did he give? “Seek the truth and find your happiness.”
We marveled at the abundance of shepherds watching over flocks of sheep and goats; camels roaming in the desert sands, only females and the young branded with identification of the owners; mirages where the reflection of desert sands trick the eye; and the lonely donkeys used for transport and cargo by young boys and old men.
Our trip was a study of ancient history and Islam, set in beautiful desert countries. Many people, surprised to discover our American identity because very few Americans travel there, sought to make a connection. “Please tell your countrymen about us. Let us talk together and be friends.” Virtually no one was hostile or suspicious of our intentions for visiting their country.
Bonnie Ayer recently retired as the principal of the John J. Flynn Elementary School in Burlington. She and her husband, Russ, live in East Charlotte where,among other things, Russ keeps bee hives and makes honey.